Penguins in Chiloé, Chile

Another border crossing and about 5 hours later, we were back on the Pacific shores, to the archipelago of Chiloé.  These 40 minor islands presented yet another stark change from the Lakes District of Argentina… lush, undulating pasturelands, craggy shores and a somewhat isolated, “old world” population that lives mostly off of sustainable agriculture and fishing.  We couldn’t say long to explore all that this area had to offer… but just enough time to seek out one of the penguin colonies just off shore.

We went to a nature reserve close by (that, interestingly enough, is partially funded/ sponsored by the Milwaukee Zoo) where you can take a short boat ride from shore to one of the ‘rookeries’ and hear (in Spanish : –)  ) about the penguins and other birds that roost there.

Our first look at penguins in the wild… here, Magellanic and Humboldt penguins.  Magellanic penguins have 2 black stripes underneath their bills and Humboldt have one stripe.  We obviously couldn’t go on shore, but got plenty close enough to observe all the waddling, flapping, beak-greeting, swimming, diving and incessant squawking that you come to expect from these cute creatures. 

Other life on the islets… Chloephaga birds (male is white, female is black)… and their chicks

Haematopus birds (I think… had to look it up!)

  A sea otter

 

We fully enjoyed our relaxed time here but had to keep moving on.  Next stop, Bariloche, Argentina for more trekking. 

Huerquehue Lakes Hike

The initial reason for our visit to Pucon, Chile was to take on the Huerquehue Lakes Trek… one of the most popular treks in the Lakes District of Patagonia.  However, upon arrival, we talked to a few trekkers who had already been on the trail, and recommended that we scratch the 4 day hike (which was basically two days in, and two days back out on the same trail), do the day hike instead and add the volcano climb to our itinerary.  This is exactly what we ended up doing and it worked out perfectly.  In addition, we were fortunate enough to meet up again with our friend Roy, who we had initially met in San Pedro a couple of weeks earlier.

 Thick bamboo forests Araucaria Trees… a strange-looking conifer also called ‘monkey-puzzle trees’

Villarica Volcano, Pucón, Chile

After many, MANY 10+ hour bus rides south since arriving in Peru a month ago, we finally arrived in much-awaited Patagonia.  We woke up after our overnight bus and we were clearly “here”.  Slower paced, less developed and gorgeous, natural beauty!  We felt relieved and excited to finally get here and were looking forward to the next leg of our journey.

The looming lava cone of Villarica Volcano towers above town. 

The volcano last erupted in 1971 and is one of Chile’s most active volcanoes.  This alert system gives us some solace. :- )

Our volcano expedition crew… all people staying at our hostel.  A mix of people from the US, UK, Germany and Bolivia

Our climb up the volcano started with a chair lift (in the winter, the volcano is home to a ski resort).  From there, we would climb another 945 meters (3100 feet) to the summit at 2847 meters (9338 feet).

 

Quetrupillán and another volcano in the distance, all part of the same ‘fault zone’.

Break time on our way up

   Scott, Elin and Linus

Getting closer to the summit, the noxious fumes from the active crater began spilling over us.

 

At the summit.  With big winds and fumes swirling, we’re prevented from staying very long at the top. 

View from the top

Coming down was a lot easier and LOT more fun!!  Most of the way down consisted of a series of glissades—essentially sliding down on your butt, maintaining your speed with your feet and ice axe.   

Jen shows us how it’s done….  :- )

Back at the hostel, a celebratory beer, trading stories and one last picture with our guides.  A perfect end to a perfect day!

 

Thanksgiving in Viña del Mar, Chile

A short train ride from Valparaiso is the beach town of Viña del Mar.  After a couple busy days of touring around bustling Valparaiso, we headed up the shore for a change of pace.

  A bit of Easter Island on the mainland.  Since we couldn’t make it there on this trip, it was nice to at least see an original Moai statue, here outside the Fonck Museum in Viña del Mar.

Even though we were away from home, we were lucky enough to be able to spend our Thanksgiving holiday with Vicki and James, whom we had previously met in San Pedro de Atacama.  Home-cooked meal, fantastic company, and a few bottles of wine, it was definitely a Thanksgiving celebration we would never forget! 

Our next stop….Pucon!

See you soon!

 

Jen and Scott